Saturday, May 31, 2008

Rio through Holga

This is a verrrry long slideshow of pictures I took last year in Brazil. They were all taken with a Holga 120.

And here is the rest of it.

Some edits from our 8th Ave shoot

Here's a variety of photos from a shoot we did off 8th Ave. Here we have images from the Canon 40D Digital SLR, Canon T70 shooting Ilford 100 B&W film as well as Fuji Astia 200 Slide film.

Friday, May 30, 2008


These are 3-D Stereograph images. View more images and learn how to see them by following the link...

In order to see the 3-D image, stare at the image and cross your eyes. As the images become blurry, a third image should start to appear in the middle. Relax your gaze and the third image should start to come into focus. Enjoy, but don't hurt yourself.

Thanks to Neil Creek for the tutorial, which can also be found at Digital Photography School.

All shot with a Canon 40D, flash on a stand to the side.

Thanks for viewing!

Polaroid Daylab

This is Rachel working on a photo project with a Polariod Daylab. Right before it crapped out.

With two sheets left in the developing tray, the flash stopped working. After spending an entire day trying to fix it, I decided to vent my frustration by documenting it. If you want to see some examples of what a Daylab can do, check out this site.

Daylab repair I

Part one: Warranty-voiding repair...

The first problem is how to take it apart... The special screw that opens it up has a top secret hiding spot behind this "DO NOT OPEN" sticker.

Proceed at your own risk. This releases the back. You’ll notice two screws that hold the front of the head in place. Remove those before moving to the smaller screws that attach the base of the head to the post that holds it all together.

Before trying to take it all apart, look down and unscrew the white box on the inside from the base. This white box holds the flash, color filters, and test lamp.

Now that the head is off, set it to the side. To get to the control board, you have to lift the lower part of the head off of the base.

Here’s the trick: Guaranteed to void your warranty:

Flip it over and look up into the base. There are two circular spots where the plastic has been heat-welded together. The part to the left of the screwdriver head is the base, and the part in front of the screwdriver head is the post attached to the head. You have to separate those pieces of plastic and push the head post inward. You can see at the tip of my finger where the plastic heat-weld has split, and where the post has been pushed down.

When you flip it back over, you are able to then lift the lower part of the head up and away from the base. Take it up and all the way over the back post. Here is a closeup of the head post once it’s removed, and a picture of the base once the head post has been removed.

Daylab Repair II

Part two: How it works...

This white box holds both the flash and the test lamp. This translucent white piece is a diffuser.

Lifting it out, you can see the two lights. The flash is this small xenon flash tube on the left.

The three colored blades are attached to the sliders on the front of the head. Adjusting the sliders moves the colored blades in and out of the white box.

Looking at the white box from the other side, you can see how the test lamp is on one side of the blades and the flash is on the other. When the test lamp is on, it is unaffected by the color blades. When the flash fires, however, the light from the flash has to pass through the blades before hitting the diffuser. Therefore, the amount of color adjustment made with the sliders affects how much of that particular color blade stands in front of the flash. This is why the image darkens when the color is significantly increased.